Bisteeya

This pie, a classic of Moroccan cooking, is traditionally made of either pigeon or chicken, and a pastry called ouarka. Filo pastry works well as a substitute, and squab, if obtainable, makes an excellent filling. If using chicken, it’s best to choose the dark parts such as thighs as they have more flavor. In Morocco, chickens are generally smaller and tastier; the whole bird would be used—cut in pieces, but not boned. The following recipe uses boned meat because it’s easier to eat. It makes 6–8 servings of bisteeya—a rather small amount by Moroccan standards, where pies are made large enough to feed a crowd.

3 squab or 6 meaty chicken thighs
1 teaspoon ginger
2½–3 teaspoons cinnamon
salt and pepper to taste
5-6 tablespoons light olive oil or sunflower oil
2 large onions, finely chopped
¾ cup slivered almonds
1 dozen whole almonds
½ cup chopped fresh cilantro
½ cup chopped fresh parsley
6 eggs
8-10 sheets filo
2-3 teaspoons confectioners’ sugar
Rub the squab or chicken thighs with the ginger and 1/2 teaspoon of the cinnamon. Season with salt and pepper. In a large pan, heat 2 tablespoons of the oil, and stir in the onions. Add the squab or chicken to the pan along with 2–3 tablespoons of water. Cover the pan and cook over low heat until tender, turning the meat once or twice. This takes about 30–40 minutes. Remove the meat from the pan and let cool until tender. Pour the liquid and other ingredients from the pan into a bowl and let sit in a cool place.

While the meat is cooking, turn the oven to 300°F. Put the slivered and whole almonds into a metal pie pan with a teaspoon of oil. Stir them around; then place them in the oven and toast them until golden brown—about 10 minutes. Put them aside.

When the meat is cool enough to handle, remove the flesh from the bones. Discard both bones and skin. Cut the flesh into bite-sized pieces. Set it aside.

Skim the fat from the top of the liquid and other ingredients you reserved. Return the defatted mixture to the pan and add the chopped cilantro and parsley. Cook over fairly brisk heat until the sauce has reduced to a thick mass. Beat the eggs in a bowl; then, over low heat, add them to the sauce. Season with salt and pepper and stir the mixture around until the eggs are scrambled. Remove from heat. To assemble the pie, take an 11- or 12-inch loose-bottomed tart pan and brush it with oil. Spread a sheet of filo on it, letting the edges flop over the sides of the pan. Take another sheet of filo and place it over the first but at a slightly different angle. Brush with oil. Continue this way until you have layered 4 sheets of filo in the pan. Arrange the pieces of meat on this. Season lightly with salt and pepper. Cover this with the egg mixture. Now add a sheet of filo on top. Fold it over so that the meat is completely covered by a double thickness. Brush with oil; then add another sheet of filo, similarly folded to cover the meat. Sprinkle the slivered almonds on this. Reserve the whole almonds for garnish. Sprinkle with a teaspoon of confectioners’ sugar and a teaspoon of cinnamon. Now fold the filo that has been hanging over the edges into the pan to cover the almonds. To complete the pie, place the remaining sheets of filo on top, brushing each sheet with oil before adding the next. Cut them off at the edge of the pan so they are smooth and unwrinkled. Lightly brush the top sheet with oil. Place the pie in the center of a preheated 350°F oven. Bake for 45–55 minutes or until the top is crisp and golden brown.

Remove from the oven and serve either hot or lukewarm. Before serving, dust the top with the remaining confectioners’ sugar. Make a crisscross pattern by sprinkling the cinnamon in lines across the surface. Serves 6.